3 Tips for Container Garden Success
Your door mat may say “Welcome” but what are your container gardens saying?
Whether they sit at the front door or mark the entrance to the driveways these are the ambassadors that really welcome guests to your home. At least they should. Of course, we have all seen container gardens that say “I’m overwhelmed”, “I’m tired” or even worse…”stay away!” Now I am not blaming anyone; we are all busy people: time-pressed and energy-starved. Our intentions are good but then life gets in the way. Rather than giving up on container gardening, which is my first love (alright maybe second after Scott Weaver in first grade), let me give you some tips to make container gardening success a bit easier.
3 Tips for Container Garden Success
1: Start with a large pot.
Most of my containers are between 18”-20” in diameter. Same goes for window boxes. Make sure they are at least 8” deep and wide. A large container means greater soil volume so plants will not dry out as quickly so there’s less watering for you. While you may be tempted to keep the water in the pot by not drilling drainage holes, don’t do it. Your plant roots will rot and you’re back to square one. Avoid terra cotta pots. The porous material is great for Mediterranean type plants (think rosemary, lavender), but it practically dries out when you turn your back and we are going for less maintenance, not more, right? Gardener’s Supply in Vermont has a great selection of planters, even some that are self-watering.
2: Choose the right plant for your location.
Sounds sensible but I have seen too many sun-loving geraniums limping along on a shady porch. Putting sun-lovers in shady spots and shade-lovers in sunny spots will not make for happy plants and you will have to “baby” your containers to maintain them and who has time for that?
3: Focus on foliage.
I am a huge fan of all-foliage containers. Deadheading, the process of removing spent flowers to encourage re-blooming, is relaxing to some people. Not me. Nothing says “Sit back and enjoy that glass of wine” like a container that needs no deadheading. A container of foliage plants will look as beautiful in August as it did in June. If you insist on flowers, focus on those that require little deadheading, or are self-cleaning like bacopa, lantana, or calibrachoa (million bells). And include great foliage plants like coleus or heuchera among the bloomers. That way when those flowering plants take a break (which for me is typically right before a big party mid-summer) you will still have something pretty to look at.
By using my three simple tips, you are sure to have container gardens that will welcome guests to your home this summer.
You may not even need the welcome mat!
Hold the Salt
While salt on your French fries may be just the thing, salt on your plants…not so much
Despite the relatively mild winter road crews and homeowners have been using ice melt (sodium chloride) and with that comes the risk of salt injury. Plants most affected are those along walkways, roadways and driveways. Along highways cars can kick up salt spray which is deposited on adjacent plants causing dehydration of evergreen leaves. The major symptom of salt injury is needle browning or yellowing and tip dieback. To avoid salt injury reduce your use of salt, using it only in high traffic areas. Protect plants from damage with a physical barrier such as burlap (much as I hate these winter mummies it would be helpful in a situation with heavy salt spray). In the city the problem becomes salt runoff washing into the soil. If plants absorb this runoff it can prove deadly. If you think your soil has a heavy salt content water it thoroughly in the spring; as long as the soil has good drainage this will help leach the salt out.
Winter Plant Spotlight – Dogwood Shrub
Many people are familiar with the beautiful spring-flowering dogwood tree (cornus kousa). Fewer are aware of the wonderful attributes of the dogwood shrub (cornus alba, cornus sericea).
This four-season shrub is useful in every landscape.
In the spring it’s covered with white flowers which are followed by a bluish tinted fruit in summer.
In fall the leaves can turn a dusty maroon.
But it is in winter that this shrub shines.
Bare stems are either vivid red or yellow and brighten the winter landscape. The cultivar ‘Cardinal’ is one of my favorite varieties for its brilliant red/orange stems.
Cut back 1/3 of dogwood branches every year as the most beautiful color occurs on newer stems.
Lose the Rake
OK I’ll be honest. I have yet to do my fall chores. The recent frost has turned the plants in my containers into terrified skeletons, a blanket of leaves covers my lawn and the tropicals in the garden have gone to mush. Not to mention the chipmunk tunnels that are crisscrossing both the lawn and garden. Spending all day in my clients’ gardens leaves me with very little energy for my own. So I have come up with an abbreviated list of “must-dos”. This streamlined approach leaves me with more time to watch NCIS and enjoy a glass of wine (which is what I wanted to do in the first place).
To start, I remove all dead annuals from the pots and gardens. Diseased plants are also taken out but not put in the compost pile; I don’t want any disease spreading. I do not cut back most perennials for two reasons. First, those with ornamental seed heads or structure can provide winter interest. Second, some perennials, like delphiniums, have hollow stems; cutting them back allows water in and can promote rot. An exception is bearded iris. If iris borer is a problem I cut back the iris foliage AFTER the first frost.
Instead of raking I mow my leaves. Using the lawn mower with the bag attachment allows the leaves to be shredded and collected. All that’s left is to mulch the garden with them. Over the winter they will break down and enrich the soil. Finally I make sure both the garden and my home are not appealing to critters. I spray Deer Defeat (visit their website) on my evergreens and sprinkle some fox urine around the house to deter mice and squirrels. I do not wrap my plants to protect them from the elements; the burlap mummies I see in some yards do not look attractive to me. The best defense for any susceptible evergreen is to make sure it is well watered going into the winter.
Less time spent on fall chores means more time spent on fun things. NCIS anyone?
Change Your Bulb
Everyone knows fall is a great time to plant bulbs.
This year why not try something a little different? Garlic.
This delicious bulb is easy to plant and the steps are simple.
Start with a nice full head of garlic – best to use one from the Farmers Market rather than one from the supermarket which could have been treated.
Break apart the cloves but leave the paper husks on.
Plant the cloves about 2” deep and 4” apart in sunny, well-drained soil.
Cover with a layer of mulch and check back in spring.
Cut off flowers in spring to guarantee the biggest bulb.
Fertilize if the leaves start yellowing.
Harvest when the tops turn yellow and start to flop over.
Use a spade to dig up the bulbs, brush them off and let them cure in a shady spot for two weeks.
When the husk or wrapper is dry and papery and the bulb is hard, the garlic is ready to store.
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